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A landscape that's remained much the same
for over a thousand years |
Some gardens are known
for their topiary; others for their cloud-pruned hedges, or
monumental cascades, or ranges of spectacular Victorian glasshouses.
Forde Abbey, not technically in Somerset but near as dammit being just a few miles over the Dorset border from Chard in south Somerset, is known
for something altogether smaller, more modest and natural: it is
covered, at this time of year, with swathes, rivers, and cascades of
crocus.
This is how crocus
should be grown: not as little clumps of specimens without context,
floating lonely in a sea of mulched garden soil, but as rivers of
purple and violet and white running down hillsides and cascading
across fields, witness to the generosity of the natural world.
When you see crocus in
this number you realise what spectacular plants they are: a sheet of
colour from a distance, when you get up close you see how not a
single one is the same as the next. Some have slender, papery petals,
others are blowsy and generous; some petals are deeply striated in
violet or fade from deep purple at the tips to translucent white in
the centre as though someone had been along and turned the flower
upside down to dip it in paint.
Most of the crocus at
Forde Abbey are Crocus vernus and C. tommasinianus –
both perfect for naturalising in grass as they seed freely and grow
vigorously. The huge variations within each species is part of their
charm, of course. They're also delicate enough to meld in and look
natural: imagine large-flowered 'Snow Bunting' here and you realise
it would just look plain wrong.
If you can tear
yourself away from the crocus for long enough (don't worry: there are
bound to be more just around the corner) there are other delights to
be seen at Forde: not least the Abbey itself, a wonderfully mellow
12th century Cistercian monastery owned and run privately by the
Roper family for over a century.
I love the fact that
both house and garden are still in private hands: it avoids that
corporate too-perfect National Trust look entirely, and though it is
undeniably a little woolly around the edges, that's part of the
attraction (and rather reassures you, since when a stately home has a
few weeds in the borders it somehow gives you permission to, as
well).
It's the only place I've ever been which leads you to the house through the veg garden: I approve enormously, as this is a real testament to the fact that edible gardens needn't be tucked away out of sight. This bit of the garden is ably managed by Charlotte Roper, who was kind
enough to let me have a nose round the peach house – usually closed
to visitors – in exchange for a photo of her Peach 'Peregrine' in
full and sumptuous flower.
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Peach 'Peregrine' in the lean-to greenhouse looking sublime
against the mellow stone of the Abbey walls |
The lumpy-bumpy
cloud-pruned hedges that greet you on the other side of a monastic
archway are echoed in the quirky and deliciously tactile dollops of
clipped yew hedgery that line the pathways. Forde does long framed
views extremely well – the legacy of its 17th-century landscape
roots - both down the Lime Avenue and across the Mermaid Pond to the
waterfall beyond.
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Yews like big green dollops of cake mix:
I just wanted to stroke them |
Water is a big thing at
Forde: as well as the Mermaid Pond and its accompanying Long Pond,
running the length of the double herbaceous borders, there is a huge
bog garden full of burgeoning skunk cabbage, a canal pond and a Great
Pond, too – the only surviving bit of the landscape the monks left
behind.
It is a peaceful,
absorbing place: one of those gardens where you find little surprises
in odd corners. You may come to see the crocuses, but you stay to
teeter along the ha-ha, explore the Blacksmith Hill and meander along
the Stone Path. I ended with a happy half-hour rummaging among the
extremely good selection of plants in the well-laid-out nursery
alongside the garden. The perfect end to a perfect day.
The gardens of
Forde Abbey, Dorset, are open every day from 10am. You can also look around the
house if you go in the afternoon between April and the end of
October.